Beauty Lies in the Eyes of the Beholder

Tuesday, April 12th - - Wildflowers or Weeds? My mama once told me that a weed was anything growing where you didn't want it to be! By her definition then, a flower could be a weed... and a weed could be a flower. We've got thistles in Indiana but I don't think I've ever seen any quite like this! Alongside US highway 70 in Southeastern Oklahoma.





And, for TK, a sight to soothe the soul... In her comment on that post, TK says “I just want to crawl into that picture and inhale it?” Well, that's just how I felt on Sunday! And I must say, Green is gorgeous! Have you ever noticed just how many shades of green there are?

Rapha Women's Line, Take 2

Over the summer I wrote about being underwhelmed with Rapha's women's line, but recentlycircumstances have encouraged me to give them another chance. And by circumstances I mean their 50% off winter sale, which coincided with the sudden demise of some of my current winter cycling clothes. Long story short, I now own several pieces of Rapha gear, two of which I will review here: the women's winter bib tights and long sleeve jersey. After mypreviousRaphapost, some felt that I intentionally used low quality pictures to exaggerate my criticism of the clothing. So this time I used a proper camera and did my best to show the clothing in a flattering light, freezing my butt of on a 20° day in the process. While I usually wait longer before reviewing a product, these are winter-specific and it is probably more useful to write about them now than once winter is over. Please keep in mind that the comments here are based on a very brief period of ownership.






Rapha Women's Winter Tights




I decided to take a chance on theRaphawinter bib tights, because several women I know wear them and have good things to say about them. As you can see, these "tights" are pretty much a full-body jumpsuit. In my view that somewhat justifies the price of the garment, as the amount of warmth and coverage it provides is akin to what you would get from both tights and a vest. The fleece-lined tights are warm and windproof, designed for winter temperatures. At the time of this review, I have worn them on only one 30 mile ride so far in 25°F. My understanding (based on how others wear them) is that one dons these over a base layer and under a long sleeve jersey. For the purpose of demonstration I will show them here without a jersey on top.




I am a US size 4 and got the winter tights in Small. They are a very close fit, but also super-stretchy and don't constrict my movements at all, so I guess I am happy with the size. Multi-panel construction allows for a tailored look. The sizing seems designed for lean women with big thighs and a moderate bosom. If you are larger than a size B on top, consider going up a size or the torso might feel constricting. If you have very slim legs, consider going down a size or the tights might be loose. If you have a big bosom andslim legs... well, then you might be out of luck.




As far as quality, the tights seem to be well constructed, with no loose stitches or sloppiness. I won't really know until I wear them for at least a season though. The aesthetics are elegant, with the contrast piping and panels. Mesh panels in the shoulders and back aid temperature regulations and reduce tugging when in the drops.





The bottom is reinforced to prevent wear from contact with the saddle.There is a roomy pocket at waist-level in the rear that I could frankly do without (it adds some bulk under the top layer of fabric), but some might find useful. I could also do without the word "wheelsucker" embroidered on the right butt cheek. But I guess no one I ride with will ever see that, so I needn't worry.





A distinct feature of these tights is the large reflective strip on the back of the left calf (as another reviewer points out, the placement on the left is curious given that the manufacturer is English, but it works for American roads). I was riding with another woman who was wearing these, and the reflective strip made her very visible from a distance as she pedaled. The mesh stir-ups are another nice feature, as they keep the tights from riding up and exposing skin at the ankles while also being soft and stretchy enough to eliminate tugging.





The front unzips to just above the belly-button. On a scale of 1 being easy to put on and take off and 10 being difficult, I would rate these as a 7. I would not want to be trying to pee in the woods in the dead of winter while wearing these bibs with several layers over them. The type of cycling I do is unlikely to call for that, but winter-peeing enthusiasts beware. What bothers me more, is that I find it quite difficult to smooth out my base layer inside the bibs - the zipper opening does not allow for enough reach. As a result, there is inevitably some unsightly bunching around my hips inside the bibs.






And finally there is the lack of a chamois. The tights are unpadded and meant to be worn over padded cycling shorts. The idea is that this way, you don't have to wash the entire massive jumpsuit every time you wear it and therefore it is a great feature. I can sort of see that, and I also appreciate that without the tell-tale pad these bibs can double as a cross-country skiing jumpsuit. But there is one thing that confuses me: Isn't the whole point of bibs to solve the problem of cycling shorts cutting into your abdomen? If so, it seems to me that the Rapha bibs rather fail at that aspect of things. Also, some might simply find it too bulky and constricting to wear fleece-lined compression tights over shorts. You may want to consider this aspect carefully before buying.






Summary: The Rapha women's winter tights are really more like a multi-sport full body jumpsuit. They are warm, easy to move in, attractive, and increase the cyclist's visibility on the road. On the downside, they are time consuming to put on and take off, while the lack of a chamois and the need to wear them over cycling shorts negates the waist-band eliminating benefits of bib tights and adds bulk. Given how warm these are, I am willing to deal with their limitations. But ultimately my opinion of their value will depend on quality. I really hope these last longer than a season! I would also suggest that Rapha consider offering a padded version for those who would prefer to carefully wash the chamoisto having to wear them over cycling shorts.






RaphaWomen's Long-Sleeve Jersey




I got thewomen's long sleeve jersey to wear as a midlayer underneath my winter cycling jacket. Again the purchase was motivated by positive feedback from a couple of other women who own this garment. There are several choices for colour schemes, and after agonising over the "fig" vs the "blue," I decided on the latter. It is a pleasant slate blue colour that transitions from gray to seafoamish depending on how the light hits it. I have worn this jersey on a handful of rides so far.





The size Small is spot-on for my US size 4 frame (worn over a sportsbra, long sleeve baselayer, and bib tights). As with other Raphawomen's items, if you have much in the way of bosom you may need to go up a size. The jersey has a full zip and drawcords to tighten and loosen the hem.





This is actually a nice feature, because on some of my current jerseys the hem is too loose and on others it rides up. It is hard to get that part right for women, because of the curvature of the hips - everyone's is different. There are three deep pockets in the rear, with an inner compartment for a small pump and a zippered compartment for credit card and cash.






As with other Raphajerseys, there is a high collar and a tab to prevent the zipper from digging into your neck. I like the colour-matched zipper and stitching; there is not too much going on in this jersey.





The white armband that screamsRaphais a feature I could do without very happily, though I understand that this is too much to ask. But I will say that, similarly to brands like Chrome, in a way Rapha has gotten itself into a corner with the strong visual branding. At this point there are people who would enjoy the functionality and quality of some of the garments, but are simply too embarrassed to wear Rapha because of what the branding has come to represent (roadie couture, backlit films of exquisite suffering, etc.). Maybe something to consider.







The fabric is "Sportwool" - 52% merino wool and 48% polyester. The surface of the fabric is smooth and shiny, almost shimmery in the sunlight. It does not look or feel particularly wool-like to me, so if you are seeking the tactile qualities of wool be aware. While I am not sure that I'd be able to wear this against bare skin (I am sensitive to polyester), over a merino baselayer it is fine. Most importantly, I find this jersey to be surprisingly warm, and the best insulating mid-layer I have tried so far. Prior to getting it, I was wearing a heavy Icebreaker turtleneck over my baselayer and it was neither as warm nor as breathable. A little disappointing, because I prefer 100% wool, but I have to admit that the Raphajersey does the job. Worn underneath a windproof shell, this setup has kept me comfortable on rides in temperatures in the 20s.






Summary: This is a wool-blend cold weather jersey with a number of useful features. While YMMV, it seems to work extremely well for me as a winter midlayer. The fit may be tricky for curvy bodies, and the tell-tale Raphaarmband is sure to cause some eye-rolling, but ultimately this is an effective garment that to me was worth the sale price.




Having examinedRapha's new additions to the women's line for - at a local retailer (the Ride Studio Cafe in Lexington, MA), they generally strike me as more flattering and more aesthetically pleasing than the items I commented upon in my previous post. I would love to see Rapha make a couple of jerseys in 100% merino, especially for the summer, a better fitting wind jacket in a more inspiring colour scheme for the warmer season, and arm warmers that are size-matched to their short sleeve jerseys. I would also love for Rapha to tone down some of the strong visual branding. I hope the Rapha women's line continues to expand. The more options for female cyclists, the better.

Snow and Rim Brakes, Derailleurs, Etc.

There are good reasons to recommend snow-proof bikes for winter cycling: powdercoat, hub brakes, internal gearing, single speed fixed. However, some prefer to stick with a regular bike through the winter, eitherforspeed, economy or other reasons. That is my situation right now, and so far even limited riding in the snow has given me a pretty good showcase of things to watch out for. Here are some of them:



Snow and rim brakes:

This is an important one for safety. If you ride through snow and it builds up on your wheel rim, you can lose braking power on a bike with rim brakes. After riding through snow, I try to remove it from the front rim as soon as I notice any build-up, before it has a chance to freeze. This can be done fairly quickly: First I bounce the front wheel forcefully, then spin it as I wipe the snow off with a gloved hand.



Snow and the derailleur:

If your bike has derailleur gearing and you get the derailleur covered in snow, it can solidify and impair shifting. I was surprised to see how quickly snow can build up and freeze around that area; I guess there are a lot of convenient nooks and crannies for it to get into. To remove it, I shake off the rear wheel and free the derailleur from buildup with gloved fingers. I also try to stay in a low-ish gear in case the shifting goes. I would be reluctant to leave a derailleur-geared bike locked up outdoors in the snow for any length of time without some sort of cover.



Fender clearance:

This is not a popular opinion to have in transportation cycling circles, but fenders can be a pain. Unless there is a generous (as in vintage 3-speed/ Dutch bike type of generous) amount of clearance between the fender and tire, snow can get in there and does not always want to come out. If enough snow builds up, it can slow down the wheel's rotation or even bring it to a halt. I have experienced this on a couple of bikes now (granted, after intentionally riding them through snow for fun), bikes with what is considered good fender clearance for paved and dirt road riding in normal weather. Once snow gets between the tire and fender, it can be fairly difficult to remove on the road in cold temperatures; it doesn't want to be coaxed out. Better to avoid riding through soft snow in the first place.





Salt and rust:

Bicycles that are finished with anything but the hardiest powdercoat are susceptible to rust from the salted winter streets. The damage starts out as cosmetic - which is in itself sad if you have a nice bike -and can grow to become structural over time. I wipe my bike down after every ride on salted roads to avoid this. I would not leave a delicately finished bike outdoors in the winter for any significant length of time.



While not ideal, it is not impossible to ride a liquid painted, derailleur-geared bike with rim brakes and less than generous fender clearances in the snow, if you take care to watch for build-up en route and if you maintain the bike afterward. Storing such a bike outdoors in the snow is more problematic. Your bike parking situation at home and work could be the determining factor in whether going without a winter-proof bike is doable.

Fitting and the detailing on climbing packs?

If you look around the Internet for so called "climbingpacks" the prices might well run between $30 and darn near $1000. Yep..a $1000! Of those listed damn fewactually willfulfill the hype as real "climbing packs" in my opinion.



This will be the first of a several part discussion on climbing packs.



If you were paying $200 for a pair of shoes would you accept a pair of size 11s for your size 9 feet? Of course not. "Dumb Ass" question isn't it? How about a $25 pair of flip flops? Would you take a size 6 for your size 11s? Likely same answer..."dumb ass" question. Why bother to ask or answer?



There are a few things in the out door industry that really bug me. They bug me because over the years they have gotten worse instead of better. Climbing is generally a sport that people grow out of. The rare exceptions are Fred Becky, a fewof the greatAlpinists that are still alive and likely the majority of the the crew over atSupertopo :)



From my perspective boot technology hasn't made any huge advances in 30 years. Climbing packs...nothing there either. Crampons....sheesh don't get me started on crampons!



But today the topic ispacks. More specifically climbing packs, their build quality and how to fit one so it does what is should for you in the mountains.



Any climbing pack is going to be a soft frame. Generally a really soft frame as in only a foam pad stuffed in some manner into the inside the pack. The frame doesn't mean a lot (but it is important) but what does mean a lot is the length of the back panel. That back panel must fit your physical measurements or the pack will be pretty useless.



In turn the correctly fit pack and your own anatomy will define how big the pack is. When you are talking climbing packs don't expect a 18L pack to fit you well if you are 6'3" or a 45L pack to be any better if you are 5'2".



Most of us will be best served with packs in the 30 (1800)to 40 (2500) Liter range for actual climbing while still having something useful for getting back and forth from the climbs. Why those sizes? Because most backs will fit between those pack volume sizes.



John Bouchard:

"To get an idea of how important each pound is when you’re climbing hard climbs
where you can’t afford to haul the pack, try doing pullups with weights around
your waist. Start with 5 lbs. and keep increasing in 5 lb. increments. For me,
each 5 lbs. decreases my performance by 20%!"



http://www.wildthingsgear.com/wild-things/stories/light-is-right.html



If you want to actually climb difficult technical ground, limit the weight in your pack and clothing to 20% of you actual body weight. For me that is 38# total or less. 38# for boots, clothing, water, foodand thetechnical gear! If you climb with me and you weigh 50# less we don't carry equal loads. If your total body weight is 125 pounds your entire kit from sleeping bag to boots will be smaller and lighter.That will make up for some of what you carry but not all. Your total load's weight should be25 pounds!It is much much easier in the alpine to have a partner of similar size physically for a number of good reasons. This is just one of them. If you want to climb hard, climb smart first.



Sure you can climb with more weight. But you will want to know how to haul a pack if you do. Or get your partner to climb in a pack and just take one pack. Here are a couple of tips for fitting a pack. First fill the pack up. Not overly stuffed just "full". I tend to use ropes for this. Ropes run 6 to 8 pounds for a 60m rope. With these size packs 3 or 4 ropes max will fill one up and give a soft but firm pack with an appropriate amount of weight to try them on for sizing.



With the straps loose the thing should sit on the top of your butt. You should have full range of motion with your head and neck with a helmet on. Can you look up and not touch the pack? You need to be able to.






This is a good fit length wise on the back. The pack is sitting on the top of the butt.





Hip belt is too high here and way too wide forthe weight it will carry

It only takes an inch or too either wayon th back panel length to make a pack almosttotally useless.




Bounce the pack up a bit and suck in the hip belt. It is a climbing pack so ditch the damn padded hip/waist belts that are 3 inches or wider. They are worthless with any weight you can actually climb in. Quick wayt to tell if the pack designer has a clue about climbing in fact. A simple 1 1/2" or 2" webbing waist beltis enough for anything you'll want to carry up to 3 days or so. Less will do as well if the pack actually fits. You don't want to constrict your hips or abs when you tighten the waist belt. Use soem common sense and let your body tell you if the pack fits.



I get called a "girl" on occasion. But from what I have seen a woman's climbing pack should be fitted no different than a man's. The ladies are more difficult to fit in the shoulders but the fit should be the same imo. Start with the correct pack length and then go from there. I am not a woman so I can't say that with any certainty. And one of my partners has yet to be convinced she can wear a hip belt of that size and in that position.Her worry is keeping the freedom of her hip joints. She has a new pack coming that is being built on the ideas I have posted here. As are all of my custom made packs. The experiencefrom that new pack should tell us a lot. So there will be a woman's insight following up on packs and pack fitting in the near future.Ladies, ifyou disagree with what I am writing hereplease tell me and why?



Once you have tighenedthe waist belt let it settle down where it is the most comfortable for you. That is generally on your hip bones...and a inch or twobelow your Iliac crest and setting on the top of your ass for support. Yes, both boys and girls have enough ass to support a climbing pack's weight.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliac_crest








My finger indicates the top of my Iliac crest. My hip belt is most comfortable and able to carry a majorityof the pack's weight if it is located several inches belowthe Iliac crest.






This should be a comfortable position on your hips as it is where most of the weight will be, or should be anyway. Carried by your hips not your shoulders...even with just 20% or LESS of your body weight involved. Then pull in the shoulder straps. Take about 40% (or less) of the pack's weight on to your shoulders now. But not too tight. Don't lift the pack off your hips. Do you still have full head clearance with a helmet? If the answer is no...ditch the pack...it sucks for climbing.






This is OK but getting a little high on the back..so likely too long of back panel and we shouldn't be seeing air between pack and back.







This is a better fit, note the curve on the shoulder straps going up and then over the shoulders.

My body position here sucks for the picture as I am bent over and my head down so the pack looks short. It isn't.




Make sure the pack straps come out of the pack narrow enough that they will stay on your shoulders.

I am 6'1" and 185. And I can still find shoulder straps that are way to wide for my shoulders and how they have developed. I don't have tiny shoulders but I have a hard time getting a tank top to stay on them unless it is tight. My shoulders aren't flat on top. If thepack straps are too wide coming out of the pack they are simply unusable for me. I need 2" between them, but prefer no more. You might need more or less.



If you are still good,with a 60/40 split on the weight now, check your sternum strap. It is the last adjustment. Too high or low and too tight will cut your breathing. Pay attention here. Get it adjusted right. Big chested men and women will have a problem with this one if the shoulder straps and sternum strap aren't able to be moved and adjusted right. The sternum strap will really aid in how secure the pack feels on your back and your balance because of it. Get it right and a decent size pack is easy too climb and ski in. You'll seldom notice it if you limit yourself to that 20% over all weight number.






Too short of shoulder straps and too high of sternum strap





Correctly fit shoulder straps and a better position on me for the sternum strap






Depending on how a woman is built the sternum strap might have to be located much higher than on a man.







Make sure your shoulder straps come out of the back, go up a tiny bit and then over the shoulder and down. Too much up on the shoulder strap and the pack is too small in the back length. No curve there or worse yet the shoulder straps going down over your shoulder and the pack is too big in the back length.






Classic case of too small of back panel for my physical size and too short of pack straps.

There is no way to make this pack fit me. I'd be much better off with a longer pack instead of longer shoulder straps. But note that the waist belt and bottom of the pack is in the right position.






I am actually climbing here in the same pack. The problem would seem obvious although the pack is reasonably comfortable because I am not carrying a lot of weight. (although I carried 3 days worth of food/gear on this trip)But really no matter how cool I think this pack is, for me this one sucks because of the limited back panel and shoulder strap sizing. A 17.5" back panel is never going to fit my 21" back.





















Even with the lid off thisis a much bigger pack than the green 27L pictured but more importantly a much better fitting pack for my body size. It is also much easier to climb technical ground with or ski in. A better picture of my personal pack fit. It may not be perfect but it is very close. The waist belt is not buckled which allows me to play with the pack's fit and shoulder straps in this picture.



Don't try to put you size 11 feetin a size 6 shoe!



More importantly don't let some lame ass salesperson or pack maker do it for you!

This isn't rocket science folks. But neither is it easy to get a really good fit. Packs have been used for millennium, the more simple they are generally the easier they are to carry. Find the packs that fit you the best and then make side by side comparisons to others of similar back panel size.



Only your boots should take more fitting than you climbing pack. Both will make the difference between relative comfort and an unpleasant trip.



In the day of technology and a "app" or every application you are FUBARed if you think of climbing packs in that contact. The weight in any pack is best carried as close to your back as possible for comfort and balance. Modern ice tools and crampons can easily go inside these packs. I do it all the time with Nomics and Dartwins and have yet to damage a pack in the last 3 or 4 years. I seldom use a lid on a pack but like the option of adding one at will.



Super light and super tough fabrics are cool. Most of my packs are made from one form or another. But it saves mere ounces on even the lightest packs. It is the suspension and foam pad that are the biggest percentages of weight. Start adding whistles and bells and the actual pack material will have an even smaller effect on the over all weight of the pack.



Soft frame climbing packs have a big margin of error for sizing. If you are within the norm you should easily be able to find a decent pack in this size range that will fit you. If not make sure your pack maker or the production pack you want actually fits. I am 6'1" but I have a really long back for my body size. I am 21" from base of neck to top of my hips. It is not the norm. I also have a 44" chest when I am in decent shape. That makes a long pack backwith longer shoulder straps fit me better. Having a good range of travel for my sternum strap makes it more usable as well.



Common sizing info..this from CCW:



"Back sizes are
determined by measuring from the tip of the hip bone to the prominent cervical
bone near the base of the neck. This is the standard measurement used throughout
the industry. Figures given next to each model on the product page correspond to
this approximate measurement, not the actual dimensions of the pack. In general,
though, our size medium/regular fits people 5'7" to 5' 10" while a large fits
those over 5' 10". This varies, as torso lengths vary from person to person. Our
packs have non-adjustable harnesses. "



this from Wild Things:




Finding Your Pack Size (Torso Length)









Finding the right pack size for you relies on your torso length, not your
height. To find your torso length have a friend measure your spine, using the
steps below:

• Find the most prominent vertebrae (C-7) at the back of your neck (tilting
  your head forward helps). It’s the large bump at about the same level as the top
  of your shoulders.


• Find the top of your hipbone (the iliac crest). Follow this point around in
  a straight line to your spine.


• Stand up straight and lay a flexible measuring tape directly against your
  spine. Measure the distance between points 1 & 2.

Pack Sizing Information

	S	M	L
Torso Length	18	19 1/2	21

Measurements refer to body size, not pack
dimensions, and are in inches.

The single most important thing you need to know on your climbing pack is DOES IT FIT?



PART TWO and Three of Climbing Packs



For part two and three of this series I'll discuss quality of manufacture, the required accessories,fabric choices and over all pack weight.









Pictured here are the same packs cut from different fabrics.

Evening at Esther Lake

Last Sunday night we went for a drive to a local lake to check on a tip that I had gotten about a Loon nest. We did not find the nest, but we did see the Loons out in the lake. We were also treated to a beautiful sky over Esther Lake. I thought the sunset was going to be spectacular but by the time the sun went down the clouds had moved in too far and the sky was completely gray. Oh well! The pre-sunset show was just as nice :-)

Tracing the Tangles

In theory, cycling on Cape Ann - with itsmiles of rocky beaches and its quaint villages - should be idyllic. In practice, it is all main roads, devoid of shade and dense with traffic, along a largely hypothetical coastline. The water views are obscured by developments and the sea is strangely scentless much of the time. Add to that the crater-sized potholes, the unyielding drivers, and the mosquitos immune to insect repellant - and frankly I don't find it so idyllic at all.



But stubbornly I persist: the same old 45 rolling miles, from Rockport to Ipswich and back. There is exactly one stretch of backroad along my route, and I anticipate it as one might anticipate a tart fruity filling in an otherwise bland pie.



There is only one stretch of backroad, but this stretch has a little of everything: climbing, quiet, overhanging trees, wooden bridges over saltwater marshes. And the part I look forward to most are the twists. The narrow road loops abruptly to the left, then to the right, then to the left again, then - who knows. It twists haphazardly - not so much a series of hairpins, as a mess of tangles.



As a young girl I once found a stray length of golden chain in my grandmother's garden.It was thin and delicate, the kind of chain meant to be worn with a pendant. But now it was dirty and torn and missing a clasp - not really of use to anyone.I remember standing there and spilling it back and forth from one hand to the other, fascinated by the curves and tangles it made each time it settled on my palm. I would trace the tangles with my eyes and it was an act of meditation.



This memory comes out of nowhere as I now trace the twists of the road on my bike. Or rather, it is the bike that traces them. I merely hang on and take it all in, savoring the experience. The bike leans dramatically left, then right, then left, then ...who knows. And I relax and lose myself in the meditative feel of it, my hands keeping clear of the brakes. I can't tell you how I finally learned to corner. It just happened one day. It emerged from a tangle of experiences, memories, emotions.

Happy Easter

Wishing all a very Happy Easter. Make sure to find all the hiden eggs but don't get a belly ach eating to many goodies.