Sunflowers help brighten up my day.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Arc'Teryx Atom SV parka?
After writing down my "best" list for / I realised a few days later that I hadn't writtenabout the majority of items on that list. So among other things I am playing catch up on that list. I figure if it is good enough to be on that list and I actually use it, it is worth the effort of a blog. This jacket is well worth some additional exposure. It was my main go to belay parka in Chamonix this winter. And I had several well thought out choices I could and did use in addition to the Atom SV. But the most often used jacket for the cold weather we climbed in during Feb and early Marchthe Atom SV wasmy outer insulation. Twice on cold bivy'sI did use the SVas a mid layer under a Brooks Range Cirro. The Cirro I'll write more about later.
Below: Happy to be tucked away in the in the Midi loo under a few layers. SAG Merion wool hoody, Patagonia R1 Hoody, Atom LT, Patagonia Nano Puff pull ove, Atom SV, Merino wool hatand a Brooks Range Cirro over it all. Just enough in this case to keep me happy. But it was "just enough".
Here is the official spiel:
"Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece jacket, this insulated hoody is breathable enough to be used as a super warm mid-layer on frigid days and protective enough to be an outer layer while belaying or hanging out at camp. An extra thick dose of synthetic Coreloft™ insulates but packs small, and a light tricot underarm panel enhances breathability. Warm insulated Coreloft™ jacket with an insulated hood; Ideal for use as a super-warm mid-layer in cold conditions, or as a stand-alone piece in warmer conditions"
Technical Features
•Moisture-resistant outer face fabric
•Breathable
•Insulated
•Lightweight
•Compressible and packable
•Wind resistant
Construction
•DWR finish (Durable Water Repellent) helps bead water from fabric surface
•Tricot-lined underarms to enhance breathability
Patterning
•Articulated elbows
•Gusseted underarms
Hood Configuration
•Insulated hood
Pocket Configuration
•Internal chest pocket
•Two hand pockets
Zippers & Fly Configuration
•Full front zip with wind flap
Cuff & Sleeves Configuration
•Stretch-woven cuffs
Hem Configuration
•Drop back hem
•Adjustable hem drawcord
For me it helps to place the Atom SV in the Arc'Teryx range of insulated pieces. The SVis a real jacket compared to the sweater weight and more breathable Atom LT Hoody. But the SV is a lighter weight and more likely used lwt belay jacket version of the Arc'Teryx Duelly. The Duelly is a full blow belay/bivy jacket more suitable for Spring in Alaska imo but now with the SV it is also a little dated. Dated because the SV has many of the Duelly's best design features and a better designed hood for helmet use. But the SVis clearly not as warm as a Duelly.
Happy to be out climbing, up high, mid winter, long after dark?...."Not!"
I used the Atom Lt on a regular basis as a mid layer under the Atom SV. Between the LT and the SV I pretty much had the insulation value of a Duelly with a much more versatile clothing system. But no question there are times I would rather have a Duelly....just hate carrying one. The SV on the other hand is easy for weight and volume in a small pack. No question the best mid weight synthetic insulated climbing jacket I have used to date. Sizing and pattern is perfect for me. It is also the perfect layering pattern to use over a Atom LT or various other layers you might chose. I did get too warm on occasion climbing technical ground while wearing the SV...but I never felt like the jacket was limiting my movement.High praise from me evenif I do look like the Great Pumpkin in mine ;-).
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Unfinished Business: Wegetables I've Never Seen Before (5.10a)
(Photo: Adrian past the early cruxy face climbing on Wegetables (5.10a).)
I've been saving the subject of Wegetables (5.10a) for the end of the year. I could have posted about it some time ago. I tried the climb back on November 19. But on that day it didn't work out quite like I wanted it to and I wasn't really stoked to post about my failure to lead the route. After my botched, abortive effort, I hoped that I'd get back to Wegetables before the season ended and send the thing, making for the perfect little post about a 5.10 redpoint lead.
But it never happened. We were fortunate to have some relatively warm days in December, but it was still cold enough that whenever I made it back to the Gunks I craved the warmth of the sun. The idea of trooping down to the shady nooks of swampy Sleepy Hollow to climb Wegetables in the cold was unappealing to me, so I never got down there again.
And now the year is done. The child has grown, the dream is gone. Wegetables will have to wait.
But even if I can't tack on a happy ending, I can tell you what happened on November 19.
Wegetables has a reputation as a pretty soft 5.10. As Adrian and I approached the route, I thought I recalled reading that there is some face climbing with dicey pro down low, but that this climbing is 5.8-ish. So I wasn't too concerned. I expected the real challenge to come at the well-protected three-tiered set of roofs at the top of the pitch.
But once we arrived, I looked the route over and the face climbing seemed kind of tough. I saw a big reach right off the deck leading to some interesting-looking thin moves past a vertical seam that appeared to provide some truly marginal protection opportunities.
I got racked up and stepped up to make the first move... and I blew the first reach, just missing the jug and stumbling to the ground. In the process I somehow ripped up the middle and ring fingers of my right hand. Each finger now sported its own angry red gash and flap of loose skin.
After collecting myself, I taped up the two shredded fingers to stop the bleeding. As I did so I kept looking up at that thin seam, wondering if I could get anything good in there. And I started to wonder if I'd remembered the route backwards. Was the crux climbing actually not up high, but down low? Had I actually read that it was the roofs up top that had the 5.8 climbing? And if the crux climbing is where the bad pro is, did I really want to try this climb?
I started to get really bad vibes about Wegetables. Feeling spooked, I told Adrian I was giving it up. He could lead it, or we could just do something else.
Adrian decided to give it a try.
He got started and I was instantly glad I'd turned over the lead. Well, glad isn't really the word. I was sure I'd been right to give it up, but I was also a little concerned for Adrian. He made the initial reach without a problem, but the next moves were thin and his pro, two tiny nuts in some shallow scars, did not inspire confidence. He stepped up and down a few times, looking for better gear, and eventually placed above the nuts a microcam that neither of us liked. Only two of the four lobes were engaged.
Now I was more worried than before. I told Adrian that since he had this shitty cam above him, putting more rope in the system, he was at risk of a ground fall if he slipped and the cam pulled out.
He went ahead anyway, making the next move and then placing a good cam, allowing us both to breathe a little easier.
(I learned later from my sometime partner Parker that there's a great nut that goes in sideways in the Wegetables low crux. I hope to find this bomber placement when I get back to the route in .)
(Photo: Adrian in the roofs of Wegetables.)
Once Adrian was above the low crux, easy climbing led him to the overhangs. The rest of the way was straightforward, although it looked harder than 5.8 to me. Adrian found numerous placements, then got worn out and had to take a hang in the middle of the strenuous roofs. Then he finished it up, giving me the chance to try Wegetables on toprope.
I found the opening moves difficult, but I worked them out without a fall. I managed the roofs as well, sending the whole pitch on my first try after my initial stumble on the very first move, thereby salvaging a tiny bit of pride.
(Photo: Just past the low crux, posing as a toprope tough guy.)
It is a really good pitch. The low face climbing is unusual for the Gunks. It is beta-intensive and not especially hard once you work out the correct body positions. The climbing up top is completely obvious, by contrast, but much pumpier.
After I finished my first run on toprope we each took one more shot at the pitch. Adrian sent it this time around and I felt like it was significantly easier now that I'd figured out the moves. I was pretty sure I'd laid the proper foundation to come back and fire it off on the lead at some point in the near future.
I just hope I still remember my beta when I finally get back to the route. Wegetables is one of my main goals for early .
Henry and Lucy Robison
The first part of the Robison/Robinson Families of Whitley County, Indiana presented what was known about Henry Robison and his wife Ann. Census records indicate that they may have had eight children. Three children are named in Henry's will dated August 8, 1851 and the same children were also mentioned in a deed record dated August 15, 1855 where Ann and the children were selling land in Whitley County, Indiana. The children were Eliza Jane, Henry, and Emily.
According to his obituary, published in the Columbia City Commercial on December 14, 1904 Henry Robison (Jr) was the son of Henry and Ann Robison and was born in Champaign County, Ohio on January 7, 1833. "He came to Indiana at an early age and at the beginning of the civil war enlisted in Co L of the 80th Indiana regiment of volunteers for three years, and at the expiration thereof reenlisted and served until the close of the war when he was honorably discharged. During his faithful service he was hit by a piece of shell on the left shoulder causing his left arm to be helpless, but remained with his Company until the close of the war cheering by words and songs." For a number of years Henry and Lucy were the proprietors of the "Robinson House" in Lorane.
Whitley County records show that Henry enlisted in Company I of the 30th Indiana Regiment Indiana Volunteer Infantry (not Co. L 80th IVI). He was wounded on April 7, 1862 at Pittsburgh Landing.
On October 10, 1867 Henry Robison Jr. was married to Lucy Ann (Strait) Scott. Lucy had three children from her previous marriage to Charles Scott but only two were living at the time of her death in January 1907; they were Perry Scott of Marion, Indiana and Mrs. Harvey Waters of Lorane. Henry and Lucy had four children: Ella, Frank, Ida Anna, and Pearl Henry.
You can read this post to find out how the photograph above gives me my "link" to Henry and Ann Robison!
1. Ella was born about 1868 and married C. M. Kimball on February 13, 1897 in Whitley County. In the obituary notice of her father she is mentioned as Mrs. Ella Kimbal Mt. Carmel, Illinois. Her mother's obituary gives her name as Mrs. Ella Kimmel. Additional information on them can be found at Ella/Ellen Robison and C. M. Kimball. [Link added 09/18/..]
2. Frank Robison was born about 1869. He married Cora B. Beard on August 23, 1891 in Whitley County, Indiana. The obituary notices of his parents stated that Frank lived in Marion, Indiana (Grant County) and that is where he was found in the census records for 1900 through 1930. Additional information on them can be found at Frank and Cora Robison of Marion, Indiana. [Link added 09/18/..]
3. Ida Anna Robison was born January 17, 1872 and died November 22, 1899 in Whitley County, Indiana.
Her obituary was found in my grandmother's papers. The clipping is not identified (no name of newspaper or date of publication). "On Friday of last week this community was called upon to pay their last tribute of respect to one that has been with us from infancy, attended our school and our social gatherings, and our pen cannot describe the sad parting. Ida A. Robison was born in Troy township, Whitley county, Indiana on January 17, 1872 and died November 22, 1899, aged 27 years, 10 months and 3 days. Anna was a patient sufferer for nearly four years of the dread disease consumption which has claimed her as its victim. Her last days were her happiest, fully realizing that the end was near she never complained but was pleased with what little could be done for her to relieve her sufferings and was submissive to the Lord's will in whose care she had placed her trust. Rejoicing in the hope of meeting kind parents, brothers and sisters in heaven she shook hands with all present and peacefully passed to the spirit world."
The photograph was identified by my grandmother as Ida Anna Robison.
4. The obituary of Pearl Henry Robinson was also found in my grandmother's papers: He "was born at Lorane, Indiana April 3rd 1880 and died December 19th 1901 aged 21 years, 3 months and 16 days. Pearl, as we best knew him came home sick from his work on the 19th day of March, just 9 months previous to his death. His illness proved to be that dreaded disease consumption, from which he was a long and patient sufferer following so closely his sister Anna, whom he so dearly loved and so frequently spoke of. In his death his parents have lost a dutiful son, the brothers and sisters a loving brother and the young people of the community, one of their number whose loss they deeply feel as their beautiful flower offerings testified. The funeral was held at the Free Methodist Church at this place on Sunday the 22nd. The house was filled with sorrowing friends who came to pay their last tribute of respect. Rev. J.M. Jolley, pastor of the church preached a very able and appropriate sermon. Interment in the Scotts cemetery."
According to his obituary, published in the Columbia City Commercial on December 14, 1904 Henry Robison (Jr) was the son of Henry and Ann Robison and was born in Champaign County, Ohio on January 7, 1833. "He came to Indiana at an early age and at the beginning of the civil war enlisted in Co L of the 80th Indiana regiment of volunteers for three years, and at the expiration thereof reenlisted and served until the close of the war when he was honorably discharged. During his faithful service he was hit by a piece of shell on the left shoulder causing his left arm to be helpless, but remained with his Company until the close of the war cheering by words and songs." For a number of years Henry and Lucy were the proprietors of the "Robinson House" in Lorane.
Whitley County records show that Henry enlisted in Company I of the 30th Indiana Regiment Indiana Volunteer Infantry (not Co. L 80th IVI). He was wounded on April 7, 1862 at Pittsburgh Landing.
On October 10, 1867 Henry Robison Jr. was married to Lucy Ann (Strait) Scott. Lucy had three children from her previous marriage to Charles Scott but only two were living at the time of her death in January 1907; they were Perry Scott of Marion, Indiana and Mrs. Harvey Waters of Lorane. Henry and Lucy had four children: Ella, Frank, Ida Anna, and Pearl Henry.
You can read this post to find out how the photograph above gives me my "link" to Henry and Ann Robison!
1. Ella was born about 1868 and married C. M. Kimball on February 13, 1897 in Whitley County. In the obituary notice of her father she is mentioned as Mrs. Ella Kimbal Mt. Carmel, Illinois. Her mother's obituary gives her name as Mrs. Ella Kimmel. Additional information on them can be found at Ella/Ellen Robison and C. M. Kimball. [Link added 09/18/..]
2. Frank Robison was born about 1869. He married Cora B. Beard on August 23, 1891 in Whitley County, Indiana. The obituary notices of his parents stated that Frank lived in Marion, Indiana (Grant County) and that is where he was found in the census records for 1900 through 1930. Additional information on them can be found at Frank and Cora Robison of Marion, Indiana. [Link added 09/18/..]
3. Ida Anna Robison was born January 17, 1872 and died November 22, 1899 in Whitley County, Indiana.
Her obituary was found in my grandmother's papers. The clipping is not identified (no name of newspaper or date of publication). "On Friday of last week this community was called upon to pay their last tribute of respect to one that has been with us from infancy, attended our school and our social gatherings, and our pen cannot describe the sad parting. Ida A. Robison was born in Troy township, Whitley county, Indiana on January 17, 1872 and died November 22, 1899, aged 27 years, 10 months and 3 days. Anna was a patient sufferer for nearly four years of the dread disease consumption which has claimed her as its victim. Her last days were her happiest, fully realizing that the end was near she never complained but was pleased with what little could be done for her to relieve her sufferings and was submissive to the Lord's will in whose care she had placed her trust. Rejoicing in the hope of meeting kind parents, brothers and sisters in heaven she shook hands with all present and peacefully passed to the spirit world."The photograph was identified by my grandmother as Ida Anna Robison.
4. The obituary of Pearl Henry Robinson was also found in my grandmother's papers: He "was born at Lorane, Indiana April 3rd 1880 and died December 19th 1901 aged 21 years, 3 months and 16 days. Pearl, as we best knew him came home sick from his work on the 19th day of March, just 9 months previous to his death. His illness proved to be that dreaded disease consumption, from which he was a long and patient sufferer following so closely his sister Anna, whom he so dearly loved and so frequently spoke of. In his death his parents have lost a dutiful son, the brothers and sisters a loving brother and the young people of the community, one of their number whose loss they deeply feel as their beautiful flower offerings testified. The funeral was held at the Free Methodist Church at this place on Sunday the 22nd. The house was filled with sorrowing friends who came to pay their last tribute of respect. Rev. J.M. Jolley, pastor of the church preached a very able and appropriate sermon. Interment in the Scotts cemetery."
Big Bend :: Laguna Meadows Trail
One of the highlights of any trip to Big Bend to to hike the South Rim Loop. As much as I wanted to, I really didn't think that I could handle the 13 mile round trip and 1800 foot ascent!
Instead, I chose one of the “feeder” trails that can be taken as part of the South Rim trek. This one takes you the 3.8 miles to Laguna Meadows, hence the name. Longer than the hike on the Lost Mine Trail, I really thought I could make it to the Meadows.
But probably about half way there, I realized it wasn't going to happen. My legs just couldn't handle all of the climbing. Way more switchbacks and a much more difficult trail. Several times I almost quit but a light snack and a drink of water would provide a much needed boost to get me a little further along.
And the views were fantastic. This one is looking towards the Window.
At one particularly disheartening moment, this beautiful bird flew by and stopped in the tree next to me. Its sweet song lifted my spirits and brightened an already wonderful day.
The view from where I turned around. Casa Grande on the right and the Basin to the left, center.
I hadn't seen another hiker all morning until reaching this point. We talked for a few minutes. She said that Laguna Meadows was about another mile down the trail and another two miles to the South Rim. She had left early that morning and had made it to the rim already, going out the other trail to the Pinnacles. She was heading back down on the Laguna Meadows Trail. I was nearly exhausted after just hiking 3 miles or so of the trail. I applauded her and envied her somewhat. But she was young, and trim, and obviously in good physical condition!
But we each have our limits, and I had reached mine on this day. After a short break, a snack and drink of water, I turned around and headed for home.
Photographs taken February 22, ...
Instead, I chose one of the “feeder” trails that can be taken as part of the South Rim trek. This one takes you the 3.8 miles to Laguna Meadows, hence the name. Longer than the hike on the Lost Mine Trail, I really thought I could make it to the Meadows.
But probably about half way there, I realized it wasn't going to happen. My legs just couldn't handle all of the climbing. Way more switchbacks and a much more difficult trail. Several times I almost quit but a light snack and a drink of water would provide a much needed boost to get me a little further along.
And the views were fantastic. This one is looking towards the Window.At one particularly disheartening moment, this beautiful bird flew by and stopped in the tree next to me. Its sweet song lifted my spirits and brightened an already wonderful day.The view from where I turned around. Casa Grande on the right and the Basin to the left, center.I hadn't seen another hiker all morning until reaching this point. We talked for a few minutes. She said that Laguna Meadows was about another mile down the trail and another two miles to the South Rim. She had left early that morning and had made it to the rim already, going out the other trail to the Pinnacles. She was heading back down on the Laguna Meadows Trail. I was nearly exhausted after just hiking 3 miles or so of the trail. I applauded her and envied her somewhat. But she was young, and trim, and obviously in good physical condition!
But we each have our limits, and I had reached mine on this day. After a short break, a snack and drink of water, I turned around and headed for home.
Photographs taken February 22, ...
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Creative Encounters: Bicycle "Self-help" Workshop
Located in the WUK center for workshops and culture in Vienna, the Fahrrad Selbsthilfe Werkstatt (Bicycle Self-Help Workshop), functions on a similar premise as co-ops like Bikes Not Bombs in the US: You pay a small fee for the afternoon, and one of the mechanics on staff helps you fix your bicycle or assemble an entirely new one using the parts available at the shop.But the unique thing about the Fahrrad Selbsthilfe Werkstatt, is that here you are likely to see bicycles like this:
or like this:
or like this!
The workshop specialises in tall bikes and various other remarkable constructions, the likes of which you are not likely to see every day.
Though the floorspace is small, they make excellent use of the extremely high ceilings. Rows upon rows of frames, wheels, and partially assembled bicycles of different vintages, hang suspended above the visitors' heads. The resultant arrangements are quite beautiful.
Wheels and a station with tools...
forks...
cranks and pedals...
small parts...
Of course the majority of those who come in, are looking for help with "normal" bikes and are not assembling the sort of eccentric constructions shown above.
The mechanics are very helpful, and the atmosphere is mellow and friendly. A wonderful place to be, even just to watch. If you are a cycling enthusiast visiting Vienna, you will enjoy a visit to the Fahrrad Selbsthilfe Werkstatt. 
Monday, September 22, 2008
Riverbanks Zoo and Gardens~The Gardens
One of the things that made this zoo awesome, was that it is a zoo and botanical gardens. We visited half of the zoo and then hiked over to the Gardens. Even the walk over there was interesting:
The river was so pretty.
The hike was just beautiful! We were so pleasantly surprised at what a great trail they had to hike on.
Then we made it to the Botanical Gardens. This was one of the nicest Botanical Gardens that we have visited so far.
It is so interesting to watch the boys with each other now. They get along so much better than they used to. There are moments where I think they actually enjoy each other! It's pretty great to see after years of them pounding on each other. I guess the older we get, the more we can appreciate our siblings.
Living the life in South Carolina.
The river was so pretty.The hike was just beautiful! We were so pleasantly surprised at what a great trail they had to hike on.Then we made it to the Botanical Gardens. This was one of the nicest Botanical Gardens that we have visited so far.It is so interesting to watch the boys with each other now. They get along so much better than they used to. There are moments where I think they actually enjoy each other! It's pretty great to see after years of them pounding on each other. I guess the older we get, the more we can appreciate our siblings.
Living the life in South Carolina.
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