Mt. Adams, North Ridge

The Northwest side of Adams as seen from our high camp. The North Ridge is the one on the left edge of this photo. Our camp for this climb was at 6,900' and had running water!




Emily, Tania and Mark heading up the lower snowfields towards the ridge.





A small lake at 7,500'.






The upper part of the North Ridge.






Tania crossing over the ridge.






Taking a break, having a snack and staying hydrated.








Jason climbing a unique lava formation near 10,000'.









Ascending some scree high on the ridge.








We all made it to the top under clear skies. Doug, Mark, Tania, Emily and Jason. Congratulations to the 3 newcomers.








Tania descending beside the lava formation.






A couple of mountain goats at home on the colorful slopes.It was nice to finally climb a different route on this mountain. The terrain, greenery and wildlife made it seem like it was a different mountain altogether.

Sophie Prior - "The Ricoh Destruction Test"

Sophie Prior came to visit.






So did Logan Barber.

The jjobrien climbing and relaxation ranch on Australia's Sunshine Coast hinterland has beengraced witha long list of climbing legends and little-knowns.

The staff were excited about the arrival of Logan Barber and gave little thought to his plus-one a Sophie Proir.

Turns out she has talent, grace and presence.




A quick climbing tour of the Sunny Coast starts with the obligatory thrash on Coolum Cave's icons.



How do you like this guy? He puts all the moves together in one session. Sadly, didn't get to go back and send it. No doubt he can and will.





Then for a "rest" day they get stuck into "The Ricoh Destruction Test" 100m 23 (M1)

I have to work that day but I wag a couple of hours and rap in over the fourth pitch.

They ran into some problems on the second pitch and I whipped out the long lens justas they werefeeling the joy of getting established at the second hangingbelay.







Logan knocks off the tricky third pitch, blocky overlaps and lack of feet.







Sophie follows and picks her way through the overlaps.



Funny story. I moved to Tinbeerwah in 2000. There were just a couple of routes there but rarely any climbers. I hatched a plan to create a climbing scene close to my home.

So I spent weeks bolting the longest, hardest route I could conceive ofthinking it would drawclimbers from everywhere.

Nothing.

The route has probablyhad about three repeats in over ten years.

A year later I bolted some 14s. That got 'em in.







Gareth Llewellyn and Adam Donoghue did the route on their epic "Tinny in a day"

There's been a couple of hundred metres of hard climbing added since then.







Sophie gets the stand-out pitch 4.

Slabby, columns, run outs, big air below, carrots, it's got it all.











The Ricoh in question failed the 100M drop test by the way. It's mangled body could be seen at the base of the route.

My old Nokia phone got dropped from here at 80M. Recovered the following day.

"You have 3 messages"!!!






















Best shot of the roll.

Perfect position and poise. You can just make out Logan at the vanishing point.







Nice work team. Logan ticked a swag of tough routes around SEQ in a punishing nine days on.






Logan inspects Queensland's hardest high ball boulder sector never to have been touched.







Late winter is luxurious on the Sunny Coast, beautiful days and wild flowers.

Sophie's home is in the Blue Mountains, a favourite of Aussie climbers but so harsh in winter.












Thanks Sophie.

I've been trying to sell this route for a decade.

Stormy and Tuffee

A race between Stormy and Tuffee

Mountain Top

To Arlanda Express or not, and plane views

When we travel a lot we become slack at arriving at the airport on time. I also have a typical too positive attitude and daring character wherein I take risks. So that usually ends up me running down the hallways at airports. People never learn their lesson very well, huh.

Anyway, as usual I am running late. I arrived at Stockholm Central Station and hurrying up to get to Arlanda Airport, I contemplated on taking the cab, then there is the Arlanda Express which is the high speed train connecting Stockholm and Arlanda International Airport in Uppsala. It only takes 25 minutes. I was not really sure which to take. Should I take the Arlanda Express or not? The cab? Arlanda Express? Decisions, decisions and I do not have time!

Since I took the cab from the airport to Stockholm, as well as I heard from people and the woman at the Arlanda Express ticket counter that its traffic on the highways, I took the Arlanda Express option. The woman at the ticket counter was actually berating me why I was not early. Well, we had an earlier discussion about the time schedules of the train where in she asked me what time my flight is.

‘You should be at the airport 2 hours before your flight!!!’

Ooops. Yes mom! Er, ma’am...

She was really worried about me missing the flight, lol. I told her it’s alright, I have enough time to go through security. Arlanda Airport isn’t Amsterdam Airport. Well, I don’t think I was that convincing enough to her because she was quite upset me leaving so late for the airport. Oh dear.

Anyway, I got to the airport in time. I didn’t miss my flight =)

On the plane, I read about the Tasaday hoax in the Philippines. I remember this from school, in fact there was a textbook written about them and everyone truly believed they were primitive stone-age tribesmen. The Philippine government still stands strong to this belief. No sign of humbling up and accepting the misrepresentation but I know too well the Filipino (or Asian in general) value that is an institution itself called SAVING FACE. It’s a hoax people, stop pretending.

Tasadays on the KLM on-board magazine. The whole world knows its fake except that the Philippine government denies these allegations.

Here is the Tasaday story in the musem of hoaxes website: Tasadays a hoax. There is also a wikipedia dedicated to them. Elizalde have sworn the Tasadays authenticity down to his grave. But anyone who is not dumb can clearly see the loose ends. They were indeed primitive but not as primitive as Elizalde have claimed them to be.

Anywho, I have captured some cool plane views as well when we entered Dutch air space:

Stockholm to Amsterdam and vice versa is about 2 hours.

Montana Bale Trail :: What the Hay?

Sunday, September 18th - - It began 22 years ago as a good-natured spoof between two neighboring ranchers but, according to the Montana Bale Trail website, it has become a nationally recognized celebration and in .. was named as Montana's Tourist Event of the Year. I heard about it on the radio one day but as it was more than a two hour drive, I decided not to go. Then, looking at the map to determine my route to Glacier National Park, I realized I'd be going through the area.



A one-day “festival” of sorts held on the first Sunday after Labor Day, the two towns in the area (Hobson and Windham) have “special” events that day. There were reportedly 50 or so “am-hayzing” displays of hay bale sculptures, most created by local farmers and ranchers, along the trail (a 21 mile long loop on state highways 239 and 541 just south of U.S. Highway 87). Many of the hay bale sculptures remain for days and weeks afterward – lucky for me!





Most of the sculptures were named and generally included the word “hay” or “bale” in one form or another. The detail on many of them was rather incredible and ingenious.





I'm just Smurf'Hay.



Rise of the Planet of the 'Hay'pes.



Some were even more simplistic than this Toots 'hay' Roll.



But a lot of work went into this one. The sign in front of it said “Mudhay Days - May June”





It was one of the more elaborate sculptures.



Wild Bale Hickok was quite impressive though.



From his head...



To his toes boots.



But the one I thought was most impressive was “Hay-wo-Jima”



Proud to say Made in the U.S. Hay.



The wind had taken its toll on the soldiers, with the one on the right being almost blown over, but you get the idea...



It was a fun and interesting way to spend an extra hour or so on the long drive to St. Mary on the north-eastern side of Glacier National Park.