Summer

Weather patterns around the mountain have settled down. High pressure has been sitting in the area since Independence Day. Skiers, climbers, and ravens soaking up the rays at high camps are rewarded with unencumbered views of the Cascade Range.



Routes around the mountain all seem to be in 'typical' shape for this time of year. Check specific route conditions using the links to the right. July brings quick changes to conditions on the upper mountain. Be sure to ask rangers about the most recent updates while checking in for your adventure.



On another note, we'd like to give a special shout out to our extended climbing community for all your gracious assistance, positive vibes, food, gifts, and thoughts. We appreciate all your help and look forward to seeing ya'll back up on the mountain soon.

Our Special Fun in Tennessee

Updating our blog, because I don't think Aric ever got around to sharing what we saw at the park. First, I have to ask people who live in Tennessee to explain the above picture to me. In North Carolina we saw people riding in the back of trucks. I don't mean sitting in the back of trucks. I mean couches and lawn chairs were in the back of trucks, with people riding in them.



In Tennessee, we saw this happen though. More than once. Vans driving down the road with doors open and people hanging out. I don't get it, so any help would be greatly appreciated.



Ok, now to the fun. This is what we encountered at the park.

Those were Nathan's shots. He had a great view because he was very close to this guy. I won't tell you how nervous that made me. I won't tell you what I had to say about that on the ride home. I'll just say it was an amazing experience to be that close to this creature. And next time, I hope Nathan does not have my camera in his hands. It would be a real shame to lose both him and my camera.

Cat in the Wrap

Wiley cat playing with Christmas wrap paper and ribbons on Christmas morning.

Greetings from... Georgia

After I left Anastasia State Park and my visit with Denise, I headed a little further north into Georgia. I'm not going to say just where since I'm still there and will be until January 2nd.

It hasn't been nearly as warm these past 10 days as I'd like (daytime highs in the upper 50s and lower 60s and nightime lows in the upper 30s and lower 40s) but there have been a few very nice, warm days! And I'm not complaining, really, just saying... Still beats the winter weather in the Hoosier State!

A visit to my niece to see my new great-grandnephew was a highlight as was spending Christmas Day with Carrie and her family (though Jasmine and Valen weren't there). I just wanted to reassure everyone that wondered where I spent Christmas, that I was not alone, I was with family! And I thank you for your concern...

This will be my longest stay in any one spot since I left home in September. It's a little strange not to be on the move yet, but I wanted to get “settled” in somewhere for the holidays. I looked into staying in Florida but many of the State Parks were booked up for both Christmas and New Years. I guess the “big thing” in Florida and Georgia (and probably other southern states) is to go camping on holidays. I rather expected it during the summer holidays, but not this time of year. Guess it makes sense though, about as much as anything does.

This may be my last post of .. so I'd like to wish all of my readers a Happy New Year! May the coming year be the best ever for you, may your brick walls tumble, and may you enjoy health, happiness, and prosperity.

With that I'll leave you with a final sunset photo – actually, it is what I call the “after glow” of sunset, because the sun had already fallen below the horizon when this was taken (and the sun was off to the left outside the view of the camera). I'll tell you where it was taken once I leave this place...

Prosecco and Summer Darkness in Utrecht

It is never too late to post what I did last weekend. Well, Saturday and Sunday I pretty much did what the doctor prescribed—do nothing and relax. But Friday evening I went out with Blondine for some drinks and people watching at Zussen Lobby Restaurant in Janskerkhof, Utrecht.

We had coffee and then prosecco. I had white and she had rose. Then we ordered another round, both rose. Then it rained. Summer ended for a while. Then it was dry again.

It was the perfect evening to people watch in Utrecht. Because it’s the yearly ‘Summer Darkness’ festival, a 3-day/night gothic-cosplay event held at the Dom. The city’s ambience was something like god threw out a huge party and invited all his friends from heaven and hell. We even saw the devil and his army of bats. Naturally, Blondine and I stayed glued to our seats as we relish the outstanding passing scenery before us. We had fun watching!

I was not able to take pictures of the great costumes because I was busy talking but I managed to take 1!

Our plan after the drinks was really to check out this ‘Summer Darkness’ event at the Dom but then bad luck came in the form of rain. It rained, and rained and rained. Continuously. No chance.

And midnight was fast approaching. These princesses need to go home and sleep and be tuck in bed so time to call the trusted and loyal prince charming Dutchman on his white horse (black car actually haha) to rescue the damsels in distress from the pouring rain.

Visit Period: July
Destination: Utrecht, The Netherlands

DIY Leashless Umbilicals

I sold off my old ice tools for newer ones. I got Petzl Quarks as I wanted a tool that had leashes but could go leashless and I found I enjoyed the swing better than other tools on the market that fit the bill. I had not climbed leashless, so I wanted to start on them with leashes. That idea didn't last as the first time I went out this season I kept the leashes in my pack. I found climbing without leashes to be such a release. Now ice climbing is more like rock climbing. I can shake out easily and placing screws is just as easy. Even yesterday while climbing it made some mixed type moves much easier to do where I used a branch as a hold on a climb. This is not easily doable with leashes if only for the mental concept of the tool being attached to you person.

So after my first true leashless experience back in November I knew I needed to make umbilicals for my tools in the event I do a multi pitch route with them. I started with the information on AAI's blog to make my own.

Their version calls for a swivel, which I don't feel I need. I am not doing anything fancy like switching and matching at this point to make that a needed part of the umbilical. Removing the swivel keeps weight and price down when making your own too, so that was also a concern of mine. Speaking of which, it was about five dollars for the 1/2" tubular webbing and 1/8" shock cord both in twelve foot lengths. Adding a swivel probably jacks the price up to $10. (Still much cheaper than a $45 one from Black Diamond.) I followed the instructions they had and used bailing wire to snake the shock cord through the webbing which made it easy.


However, the instructions that are provided incorporate the length of the swivel into the system. Upon completing mine I found it too short for the way I wished to use it. So I added a loop of webbing to extend it and hopefully use it to girth hitch to my harness. It turned out to be still a touch short, so I now clip my extension loop onto a biner on my harness. If you are planning on doing this yourself, test often. I think the only sure test before cutting is to try it on with a harness and take some swings. Make sure to take a few to the side as well. If you are tall like me and don't plan on adding the swivel, the full 12' would be a good starting point. Since I have Quarks, I made small loops of 4mm cord to clip climbing carabiners into to loops.


Having climbed on the umbilicals once, I can say most of the time I do not notice they are there. However, there were a few occasions where they hooked on screw heads or icicles. But I'd believe with practice that those events should diminish.

Getting ready for Memorial Day weekend

The weather this week was ugly. What was supposed to be a chance of rain, turned into 20 plus inches of new snow at Paradise! That's doing little to help with the road opening operations. We've updated the road access information, but please be forewarned, it's a moving target, particularly with regard to avalanche issues and other obstacles that continually arise.

Climbing rangers will be lurking on the Emmons and Muir routes this weekend. If you're bored, stop in and visit them at high camp. Otherwise, those on the Emmons should prepare for a longer march into White River Campground. It doesn't look as though that road will open by Memorial Day weekend. Therefore, be prepared to park your vehicle at the "Mather Wye" on HWY 410 (extra 6 miles each way, unless you get lucky enough to hitch a ride with a passing NPS rig). Things are relatively normal on the Camp Muir/Paradise side. Though it is worth noting that the Ingraham Direct is already out of shape and most climbers are hitting the Disappointment Cleaver. Remember, the Jackson Visitor Center opens at 6 a.m. on Saturday.

There was a substantial increase in the number of climbers and skiers visiting the upper mountain this past weekend. To keep you up to speed, we've added a number of new reports in the Updated Route Conditions. If you've some images or narratives about your climbing experience, we want them (and so does everyone else!). Photo by Jason Hummel.

The Gang at Grotto Falls in TN

Here is what we all thought of the falls and the day:

Living the life in beautiful Tennessee!

Skeffington - Billesdon - Tilton - Skeffington

Monday 13 June . With Barry and Eddie. 8 miles. 3 hours and a bit. Fine weather after unpromising start. Mud on boots weather after yesterday's rain. Humid. Undulating.

Wildlife - several hares. A yellowhammer.

This hare came towards us on the path, then scarpered. I took this with normal lens, and then enlarged, so I am amazed you can make out the hare.

One for pedants' corner. What's with the wedding obsession? Second notice I've seen in in four days.

What bushes are these? We didn't walk near enough to find out.

Another over-enlarged picture - you can just about make out the yellowhammer.

(to be completed)

For map and details click this link

Tropical Storm/Hurricane Isaac

We are watching Isaac as I type this, and our hearts go out to those that are in his path right now. We were fortunate that we felt minimal effects as he went by us and waved. Mostly we were gifted with lots of rain, and after a summer of lots of rain that meant the already saturated ground was even more mushy.



It also meant the Peace River is up over the banks again. And too close for comfort right now. Here is a shot from our house.



We are still hanging onto the hope that we won't have to move! Beyond that, the area is back to normal. The cows are still clinging to the shade under the trees.



What? You don't see the shade from the tree? That's Florida shade, y'all! The horses are still enjoying the benefit of all the grass that the rain has brought them.



And I still drive by my favorite treehouse, untouched by Mother Nature, and imagine it being my secret getaway.

Johannes Fendt 1782 Christening Record

The christening record for Johannes shows that he was christened 18 January 1782, the illegitimate son of Catharina Fendt from Aarmuehle. The witnesses were Johannes Seiler from Boenigen; Johannes Wilhelm from Matten, and Anna ab Buehl. The entry is #8, the second from the top.

Copy of microfilm record received in January .. from Sonja Reid (my 4th cousin 5 generations removed - or something like that).

• Title: Gsteig bei Interlaken Kirchenbuch, 1593-1875
• Author: Evangelisch-Reformierte Kirche
• Publication: Microfilmed Staatsarchive des Kantons Bern, 1991
• Call Number: ..438 - ..447
• Page: FHL Film ..439, Christenings 1782, Page 231, Entry #8

Sonja noted that "the interesting thing about the name is the inconsistency in the way it was spelled. It is spelled B'hend, Bhend, Phend, and Fendt. It is often dependent on the time frame in which the information was recorded. Often at the birth of the child it is spelled one way and subsequent entries for the same person or for other children born to the same couple are spelled a different way."

Johannes Fendt, aka Jean B'hend, aka Johannes Phend, was my 3rd Great Grandfather and emigrated to the United States in 1832.

On Notching, or the Joys of the Hole Saw

This might surprise some of you, and it was certainly a surprise to me, but my favourite thing about the framebuilding experience so far has been learning about all the machines in Mike Flanigan's shop. I have never been into this sort of thing before, preferring to use the simplest tools possible for DIY stuff. The "shop atmosphere," with its various lathes and saws spinning menacingly, has always confused and intimidated me. I am not sure what changed now. Maybe the part of my brain that's responsible for this kind of stuff is just now maturing, but suddenly I am like a kid in a candy store. The machines are super-useful, physically easy to operate, and are proving to be excellent teaching tools when it comes to mechanical concepts I find difficult to grasp.For example: notching!






Building a bicycle frame is mainly about joining together pieces of tubing, which involves a lot more work than merely brazing or welding the joints. For instance, before the tubes can be joined they need to fit together properly.






Think about it: When we get a tube, its edge is cut straight across. But if we want that edge to join the rounded surface of another tube, weneed to sort of scoop out the center of that opening, to scallop it. This is what's called notching - also known as mitering or coping.






And because the tubes join at an angle that is almost never 90°, the notch must be done asymmetrically, to fit the precise angle. In theory, I understood the concept, but in practice I had a hard time imagining concretely how this was to be done. How were builders able to determine the shape of the scalloped edge with such precision and draw it on the edge of the tube? Too embarrassed to ask this question, I tried to read up on it. Unfortunately, the more I read, the more confused I got.






But the mystery was cleared up in a matter of seconds once it was time to notch my own tubes. Mike has what's called a horizontal milling machine, which can be fitted with all sorts of tooling - including hole saws of various diameters.






A hole saw is literally a round saw that makes holes in things. They are available in a variety of diameters. You choose the saw that matches the diameter of the dominant tube - the one to which you will be joining the tube you want notched.






After attaching the correct saw and installing the to-be-notched tube in the clamp, you then set the angle of the joint, according to your bicycle frame's geometry.






And that's it. As you turn the crank, the hole saw makes its way through the edge of the tube and notches it. Basically the saw forces the shape of the dominant tube through at the correct angle. Watching this happening I experienced a sudden flash of understanding and it was immensely satisfying.




Of course, by far not everyone who builds bicycle frames has this type of machine handy, and the low-tech notching method involves using lugs to make guide marks, then a hacksaw to make the cut.But even if I never have access to such machines again, operating them has done me more good than I can express.






I love the clean look of a notched frame; the way everything fits together perfectly and makes total visual sense before you get it all filthy with flux and leaky brazing marks. But also, watching the tubes fit and actually getting how and why they fit is wonderful.My head is bursting with the sudden understanding of concepts I've previously struggled with, and that is an exciting feeling to have. Whether it's framebuilding or any other subject-matter, it is never too late to learn new things.

The Larz Anderson Bicycle Show!

Today was the14th Annual Larz Anderson Grand National Bicycle Super Meet in Brookline, Massachusetts and I am pleased to report that I was able to attend.



I intended to take documentary-style photographs of the show... But that did not work out so well, as it was just too crowded with too much going on! Nonetheless, here are some shots of bicycles that I especially enjoyed and you might too.



Having seen pictures from previous years, I expected the Larz Anderson show to be full of antique roadster-style bicycle, but this year there were only a few. This one is an Elgin loop frame.



Wooden fenders, wooden chainguard and netted dressguards on another loop frame!



And dramatic upside-down North Road handlebars (or are they track dropbars? a hybrid of the two?) on a Sterling roadster.



A Columbia truss bridge bicycle!



I examined it up close, and it is definitely welded, not lugged - though I am not sure whether this was true of all early truss frames.



A Dunelt Roadster with baby chariot. These look so much nicer than the modern Co-Pilots! But are they road legal?



An unusual Concord mixte in a beautiful shade of slate blue.



The lugwork on this one was gorgeous and it was in exactly my size. What strength of will I have!



I was told that Concord was a Dutch manufacturer [edited to add: looked it up on bikeforums, and it is actually Japanese].



Could that explain the atypical spelling of "mixte"?



And how about this fully equippedRaleigh Sixteen? - a folding bicycle like the Raleigh Twenty, only with 16" wheels.



Green frame, fat cream tires and dynamo lighting! I am envious of who ever ended up taking this beauty home!



The star of the show was this enormous, forest green, originalDursley Pedersen bicycle.



Dursley Pedersenheadbadge.



Crocheted saddle (or seat in this case?).



Wooden grips with inverse brake levers.



And, of course, an antique headlamp! This bicycle was truly a spectacular sight.



My personal favourite in the show, however, was this stunning bicycle from the 1960s, which belonged to the wife of Cino Cinelli. To my dismay, I was not able to get any good full-size pictures that capture its glamour to the extent it deserves, but maybe some hint of it will come across here!



Ever seen a step-through Cinelli before? This one was apparently Mrs. Cinelli's personal ride, and it is exquisitely made. I am wondering what is the history of this particular style of frame; is it specifically Italian? I have been admiring similar designs from Abici and Bella Ciao, and would love to learn about their vintage origins.



The colour is just the right mix of pink, beige and champagne to be feminine and glamorous, yet understated. The lines are curves are as graceful as can be.



One piece handlebars and stem, with cream grips.



Cinelli crest on the stem! Just stunning.



There is a "his"model as well, and these bicycles were displayed as a pair. Riding these around town must have been a sight...



In addition to the exhibiting and selling of bicycles, there was a brisk trade in components, accessories, and vintage clothing. It was enough to make my head spin. This time around, I neither brought a bicycle to exhibit (I was trying to be incognito), nor, thankfully, did I purchase a bicycle. But next year perhaps I will plan things better and spruce up one of my vintage beauties for show and tell.TheLarz Anderson Bicycle Showis a must if you are in the Boston area and love vintage bicycles.